Latest Announcement

0000 READ ME FIRST

APOLOGIES.  1884 will be back in October, due to another project that I recently got engaged in. Please subscribe for updates, as soon as ne...

Showing posts with label Qing Empire. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Qing Empire. Show all posts

Sunday, July 5, 2020

0008 Hawaii and China in 1884: Breaking idols

PREVIOUSLY on 1884 

November 1884



As the Hawaii islands become visible as dark lumps on the vast dawning horizon, the eighteen-year-old Chinese student’s heart swells of gladness to see from the ship’s deck the land that for three years he called his second home, even as he feels apprehensiveness about seeing his elder brother again. While he watches the islands slowly growing, the young man – known as Tai Chu to his Hawaiian teachers and classmates – contemplates the reason he was asked to return to Hawaii after being sent back to China just a year ago. If it has anything to do with the incident in the village, his brother could have just written an angry letter. Not that it would make any difference.

Life is hard in China. Many dreams of a better life in faraway lands. America with its gold mines have beckoned cheap labor since the dawn of the gold rushes. Tens of thousands of Chinese men have crossed the oceans to the unknown land of the “ocean-men”. Some returned with riches beyond their dreams, while others are never heard from again. 

But Tai Chu’s dream of faraway land has little to do with gold or silver. He has exhausted all the little knowledge that the temple school can provide him and hungers for more. Much more. 

Then a school comrade who had returned from a distant town told him about a wonderful thing that the “Jesus-men” had hanging on the wall of the temple school there which can answers any questions about mountains, rivers, and towns even before you ask them. The story excited his desire to go to the lands of these Jesus-men and Ocean-men and lean more of their ways. Tai Chu was sure they must have many more things than this unnamed object that will expand his knowledge.

Chinese miners working California's gold mines

But since Tai Chu’s father had lost one brother to the ocean and another in California, such adventure became a forbidden topic in the family, and Tai Chu would have been forever doomed to languish in the village of Cuiheng, if it was not for his maternal uncle Young Mun-nap who took the risk to go to Hawaii and became a successful Honolulu merchant. Tai Chu’s brother, twelve years older, then followed out to start a new life in Oahu first as a vegetable and rice farmer, then a merchant. 

When his brother who he calls Da Ko came back eight years later to marry a wife his parents had arranged for, Tai Chu begged his parents to return with him to Hawaii, but they would not think of risking two precious sons on the same ship. Da Ko left, but Tai Chu persisted. Eventually they relented and allowed him to go with the English steamship that Da Ko and his business partner rented for the Chinese "coolies" who volunteer to work on rice plantations at the Hawaiian King’s invitation (and commission of one hundred dollars per head.)

Tai Chu remembers the first time, at thirteen years old, he saw in Macau the steamship SS Grannock. He was intuitively vindicated that something was wrong in China. Why is it that China, that believes itself to be the greatest on Earth, cannot do something that these foreigners do? Is it not an indication that they are superior to us at least in some ways and we can learn from them, rather than building a world based solely on our own proud knowledge however ancient? Upon seeing the wonderful steamship and the vast ocean, he knew deep in his heart that he wished to learn from the West and seek for the infinite truth.

King Kalakaua of Hawaii (reign 1874-1891)


His train of thought is interrupted when a nearby group of Chinese recruits asks him excitedly in their native Cantonese, “Is that Hawaii?” Tai Chu nods, “Yes, brothers. We are almost there.” The men became even more excited. 

One of them is looking seasick and has a hand on his stomach says, “Thank Buddha. I can’t stand being on this rocking ship anymore…” Suddenly, he runs to grab on the nearest railing and starts vomiting into the sea but the strong wind lands it on his own gown.

A loud laugh is heard from a Hawaiian man standing not far from them. His western costume and lack of queue set him apart from the rest of the passengers who are mostly Chinese. Tai Chu has seen him around during the three week’s journey but has not spoken with him. 

Tai Chu scoffs, “It's uncivilized to laugh at someone’s unwellness.”
Surprised to be scolded by a Chinese and in English at that, the Hawaiian explains himself, “I am sorry. I didn’t mean to be rude. I was just laughing because I was just standing downwind from his projectile vomiting a moment ago.”
He then gives a handkerchief to the seasick Chinese to clean himself.
Tai Chu: “Sorry for my misunderstanding then.”
“No worries. Are you Chinese? Where did you learn your English?”
Tai Chu answers, “In Hawaii. Where did you learn yours?”
The Hawaiian laughs, approaches Tai Chu and holds out his hand, “In Hawaii too. My name is Samuel. You can call me Sam. What’s your name?”
Tai Chu: To make it easier for you, people In Hawaii call me Tai Chu. 
Sam: What do you do in our Hawaii?
Tai Chu: It’s not just your Hawaii. It’s my Hawaii too. 
Sam: Why is that?
Tai Chu: I lived here for three years. It was here that I had a real education; and it was here that I came to know what modern, civilized societies and governments are like. That’s why I say it’s my Hawaii too. You must be kanaka maoli, native Hawaiian. What were you doing in Hong Kong?
Samuel: I am. I was just visiting Canton and Hong Kong on my way back to Hawaii after finishing my study in Tokyo.


Tai Chu is intrigued. The few Japanese in Hawaii that he has seen are poor workers in plantations, but he has heard that unlike most Asian countries, Japan is adopting Western knowledge at a fast pace.
Tai Chu: What did you study?
Sam: I got a scholarship from King Kalākaua to study nautical science in Tokyo. Our king was very impressed with Japan’s modernization when he stopped there on his around-the-world trip three years ago, so he wants to use Japan as a model for Hawaii’s strengthening. 
Tai Chu: King Kalākaua is a wise man. I had the honor of receiving a prize for English grammar from his hand during my graduation ceremony two years ago. You know what he gave me as a prize? An English-language book about China!

Sam: So it wasn’t very useful to you then. You must have known everything already.
Tai Chu: On the contrary, I didn’t know anything. That book opened my eyes about my own country. At the village’s temple school, we were made to rote memorize incomprehensible sayings of Confucius and Mencius from two thousand years ago, but nothing of China’s present conditions. We were not taught history because the government are afraid that we would rise against them if we knew too much of our own history. We were not taught the geography of China itself. I didn’t even know what a map is. I had no opportunity to know about good government, since there was no one in the village who knew what government meant other than the threat of the sword of the soldier. The government wants to keep us ignorant, teaching only that the Son of Heaven rules China and that China is the greatest – the world itself. Therefore, the Son of Heaven rules the world. Imagine my surprise when I learned that China is not the center of the world, let alone the world itself. And that it is being ruled by foreigners – the Manchu!

Emperor Guangxu of the Qing Empire (reign 1875-1908)


Sam: That is horrible. That is why China is so weak and being attacked by France right now. I had a plan to visit the Fuzhou Navy School, but it had already been flattened by French bombardment a few months ago. 
Tai Chu: All Chinese are outraged by the French. In Hong Kong, there was a large protest and a riot by all the dockworkers who refused to service French ships. And this show of strength of the Chinese people happened on a Chinese island yielded to Britain due to the Qing Empire’s weakness.
Sam: I also read about the Opium War and got worried about Hawaii too. But in our case, it would be a Sugar War. After bringing diseases that decimated our populations, the haole brought sugar plantation and made claims on our land. Although bringing modernity and prosperity, it is gradually taking away our independence. More and more are falling under the control of the white men. They are only kind and generous to you as long as it serves their interests.

Tai Chu: The Manchurian Son of Heaven would have been overthrown by the Taiping patriots too if not for the support of European interested to protect their opium trade.
Sam: Weren't they led by a man who claimed to be Son of God and brother to Jesus?
Tai Chu: You may think Hong Xiuquan was mad, but he was a true patriot who recognized that the Chinese people were suffering because the weakness and corruption of the Manchu government. With the large-scale import of Opium that the government failed to eliminate, the country grew poorer and weaker. Farmers were heavily overtaxed, rents were rising, and peasants were deserting their lands in droves. Banditry became common, in addition to droughts and famines. Would Hawaiians not rise up against such a government – all the more so because they are foreigners?
Sam: Of course, we would.

A scene of the Taiping Rebellion, 1850-1864

Tai Chu: Please tell me more about Japan. I know that Japan has taken the Ryukyu kingdom and also has an eye on Korea. That’s because China’s own weakness and stupidity. We have to learn how they become so strong and survived Western imperialism.
Sam: They were also forced to sign an unequal treaty with the United States at the threat of the gunboat, and then with other Western powers. They begrudgingly agreed to it in order to buy time for strengthening themselves with modern knowledge and technologies. It’s amazing how much they have modernized in fifteen years
Tai Chu: Is it even more modern than Hawaii?
Sam: No doubt about it. And they did it mostly by themselves, always mindful of foreign influence which came attached with the enterprises and loans.
Tai Chu: I’m envious. In China, the government can’t even protect us from bandits and pirates, not to mention foreign powers. There was a man in my village who returned a rich man from working the gold mines all the way in America only to be robbed of all his wealth in his own home. But worse than the bandits and pirates are the government officials. Our neighbor is a well-to-do family with three brothers. One was executed and the others thrown into jail with false charges because a corrupt mandarin wanted their house. There is no law and order in China. The government is our worst enemy. Hawaii is a small kingdom, but it has law and order, and the people are happy and prosperous. I love China and the Chinese people, but if we don’t rid itself of this corrupt government, although there are 400 million people, we won’t keep up with Hawaii, let alone Japan.

Manchu queue

Sam: Yes, and I was surprised to see that people are still so stuck in their old ways with their dresses, their queues and all. Didn’t you get teased about your Chinese gown and your queue in school?
Tai Chu: You have no idea. I was one of the first few Chinese students. And it took months of fighting and defending myself to get the big bullies to leave me alone, although I don’t mind so much about the smaller kids because they are too young to know and it wouldn’t be a fair fight.
Sam: Wouldn’t it be easier to cut if off?
Tai Chu: Yes, it would be easier for me. But what about other Chinese kids who come after me? I’d rather fight the bullies and let them get used to it, so that other Chinese kids who come later and may not be so strong will not have to fight them again. The queue is imposed on us by the Manchu, but here it’s become part of our identity that connects us with China. One day when we can overthrow the Manchu rule, I will cut my queue at the same time as every Chinese man. 
Sam: That’s very noble of you. I sure hope that we kanaka will learn to live harmony with people of other races who come in peace. I forgot to ask. Who do you have here?
Tai Chu: My brother has leased land from the government to develop a cattle ranch at a small town in the Kula area of Maui island. He is also involved in recruiting Chinese men to work in the plantations.
Sam: I feel sorry for them. It’s a tough life out there especially in the sugar plantations. 

Sugar plantations in Hawaii


Tai Chu: What are you talking about? They are happy to have a new life here. If life is tough in Hawaii, it’s ten times tougher back home. The Qing government is not doing anything but squeezing taxes out of them and their families, so they have to leave. And they are treated better here in Hawaii than in many places. The United States now bars Chinese workers. Hawaii is not like Cuba and Brazil, where they will probably end up like slaves. At least that’s what my brother says.
Sam: You really think it’s really better in those white-owned plantations? The only reason more and more of them come here is because they can get away with cheap Asian labors and treating them no better than slaves. Not only that, those haole, they have no aloha aina, and will destroy our beautiful islands and replace them with these plantations. 
Tai Chu: What’s aloha aina?
Sam: It’s the deep love of our islands and our sea and of all the life that the land and the sea nourish.
Tai Chu: Is it not enough that it sustains the people? 
Sam: Sustenance of the people is important, but if we have no respect and love for the land and the sea we are betraying our self.
Tai Chu: It’s like the way we Chinese worship our ancestors.  
Sam: Yes, the land and the sea are our father and mother.
Tai Chu: I will remember this, and I am deeply thankful to Hawaii for helping our people to prosper and someday maybe they can contribute to strengthen our motherland which is now being surrounded by enemies.

Ali'iolani Hale, completed in 1874, was the home of the Hawaiian Legislature in the days before annexation.

Sam: At least you know who your enemies are. For us, it’s become more difficult. May white settlers have become naturalized as Hawaiian on paper, but in their hearts they are not. My father is in the King’s government and he told me that some of them want the United States to annex our kingdom – not as a state within their Union but as a safe haven for importing a massive number of cheap brown workers whom they can mistreat all they want while keeping their mainland a white promised land. You know what happened to the Ryukyu Kingdom?
Tai Chu: It was a tributary state to China but taken by Japan a few years ago.
Sam: According to the Japanese, Ryukyu was a tributary state to both Japan and China. But China was not able to control or protect its tributary state, so Japan had to exert its control. Otherwise America would have annexed it as their own Hong Kong to the danger of both Japan and China.
Tai Chu: Is America becoming imperialist too?
Sam: It already is. How do you think they grew from a tiny portion on the Atlantic side of the continent to swallow up all the way to the Pacific coast which they see as their 'manifest destiny'. With Monroe Doctrine they aim to be the sole power of the Americas. On the Atlantic, they still have to contend with the British navy. But they dream of making the Pacific their own ocean. My family is from the area now leased to them in exchange for free trade in sugar. They now call it Pearl Harbor. In the long term, both Cuba and Hawaii are in danger of being annexed because of our strategic locations and sugar...”

The conversation makes Tai Chu think hard. He’s most disturbed about the conditions of Chinese workers, remembering the bondage slaves in his village who often get flogged by their angry masters and mistresses. He had protested against the system times and again until he realized that the bondage slaves can’t be freed until the minds of the “free” people of his village are liberated from ancient hierarchical traditions which the Manchu’s authoritarian government uses to legitimize themselves. All the barbaric customs of child-selling, female infanticide, concubinage, foot-binding, idol-worship and other reprehensible practices can only be eliminated with modern education instilling a sense of equality and citizenship among the people.

He hopes that the Chinese recruits on the ship have not not escaped debt enslavement at home to be enslaved in a foreign land. That adds one more thing to the list of heavy topics that he will have to convince his brother. It’s one thing to try to reason with strangers, but another thing with one’s own family.

---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

After saying goodbye at the dock, the two new friends part way. Sam goes to Honolulu with his awaiting family while Tai Chu waits a smaller boat that will take him to Maui where his brother awaits him. Tai Chu's apprehensiveness returns again. 

At Maui’s pier, his brother in a Chinese gown and a cue stands out from the crowd. Tai Chu greets his brother with a bow and a chest-level fist-to-palm gesture. His brother whom he calls Da Ko, pats him lightly on the shoulder and leads him to a horse-drawn cart that will take them to the ranch.
After a welcome feast of Chinese food which Tai Chu has been craving for on the ship, the two brothers sit down on the veranda for some tea. After answering Da Ko’s questions about how the family is doing, Tai Chu brings up the topic that has bothered him since the morning.

A modern Xuanwu (Northern Emperor) shrine

Tai Chu: Is it true that the white plantation owners treat workers like slaves?
Brother: Who told you that?
Tai Chu: A Hawaiian friend. He said they are often whipped.
Brother: Don’t listen to such nonsense. Our men should be grateful they have a job, rather than starve back home. The owners are doing them and this country a favor.
Tai Chu: Are they?
Brother: Stop questioning too much about what goes on between the Hawaiian and white people. We already have enough problems as it is. As more and more Chinese are coming to Hawaii, the white people are envious that we get along better with the natives. Now they are starting to complain that Chinese men are marrying native women and getting an advantage. If there are more problems, then they may import Filipinos and Japanese instead. So keep your head down. Don’t cause any troubles here like you did in the village.
Tai Chu knew this issue will be raised sooner or later: All I did was just breaking an old idol, and our family already paid to repair it. 
Brother: You don’t get it, do you? It’s not just an old idol. It’s the Northern Emperor, the god protecting the whole village. He protected me so that I safely reached Hawaii, and he protected you on your journeys too.
Tai Chu: So how come it didn’t protect our two uncles? Did they not pray to him every day? It's just a powerless idol that can’t even defend itself. 

Brother: I see that the banishment from the village didn’t do you any good. I sent you back to China last year because I thought you were getting too much influenced by the Western ways with the Bible and all. I thought going home would help reorient you in the correct way of our ancestors. I didn’t imagine the outrageous things you would do. Talking bad about the government? Lucky thing our village is remote and there are no Manchu officials to hear you. Otherwise it won’t be the idol’s arm but your neck that will be broken.
Tai Chu: The Manchu government is useless too, like the idol. They demand us to kowtow but can’t even fight the French, let alone protect us as they are supposed to. They talk so much about the Emperor’s mandate from heaven. If that's true, Heaven must be angry with them now. Oppose Qing, Revive Ming!
Brother: Stop doing things that will bring trouble and misfortune to the whole family or I will have nothing to do with you anymore. I don’t want our family to suffer because of you. They have suffered enough.

Tai Chu: That’s one thing you and I agree on, Brother. Our family has suffered enough. They have suffered because of poverty, ignorance and superstition that the government lays on us. Why did our uncles have to die far from home trying to get our family’s conditions? Why does Father have to suffer the corrupt officials who come to collect the "white deed" taxes from us every year even though we don’t own those lands anymore? Why did Mother, our aunts and sister had to suffer the torture of foot binding that could have mutilated them for life? That’s why I tried to awaken our family and our village from this nightmare.

Foot binding - a "badge of honor" for respectable women in imperial China

Brother: What nightmare? What you did was a nightmare! If you still don’t listen to reason. I will have to ask that you transfer back half of the property I registered under your name while you were here last time. I thought I was doing it for the family, but at this rate you will bring disgrace, misfortune and who knows what calamity to the family.
Tai Chu: So that’s why you paid me to come back all the way here, instead of writing an angry letter. Don’t worry Brother. We can go tomorrow to the lawyer’s office and do it. Although eternally grateful, I have no desire whatsoever for the property that you have given me. I have to follow my conscience. I don’t want any harm to fall on my family. But I believe that what I do is good for the family, the village and China. 
Brother: You got it backward. You don’t put yourself first. It’s not “What is good for you is good for the family.”, but rather “What is good for the family is good for you!” Today you break a sacred idol. What will you go on to break next?
Tai Chu: Whatever useless has got to go. Even an empire has to be broken if it doesn't do our people any good... 

At this, Da Ko gets so upset that he storms into his bedroom and slams the door shut. He doesn’t want to continue the conversation lest he says something he may later regret.

Looking out into the darkness of the night, Tai Chu remains in his chair and thinks about the future. The young Chinese will keep the words that he has spoken to his beloved brother on this day. 

In ten years, he would have started his struggle to dismantle one of the largest empires the world has ever known. Although he was known by different names during his lifetime by different people, he would soon become known forever to most of the world as Sun Yat-Sen, the Father of Modern China.

-----------------------------------


Notes:
1. The early years of Sun Yat-sen’s life is not well documented – at least in the English language. The main source of this installment is Sun Yat Sen and the Chinese Republic by Paul Linebarger who interviewed Sun Yat Sen himself many years later when much of it has slipped from his memory. 
2. Throughout his life, Sun Yat-Sen did not speak much about Hawaii and her loss of independence, although he revisited the islands several times throughout his campaign to overthrow the Qing Empire. Samuel is a fictional character that was invented to tease out what the young revolutionary might have thought and how it compared with the situation in his China.

Sources:
2. Sun Yat-sen in Hawai’i: Activities and Supporters by Yansheng Ma Lum and Raymond Min Kong Lim
3. Sun Yat-Sen and Hawaii by William M. Zanella
4. Hawaii: A History by Ruth M. Tabrah
5. Sugar: A Bittersweet History by Elizabeth Abbott

------------------------------------------
 Next on 1884.

Saturday, June 13, 2020

0006 Vietnam in 1884: Year of dead emperors


Tân Sở, Vietnam
Early August, 1884 

As he approaches Phan Đình Phùng’s quarter with a bowl of simple breakfast, the twenty-years-old military officer Cao Thắng finds the wooden hut unusually quiet. He calls out Phan’s name several times with no answer. He enters the house and finds the commander lying unconscious with a scorching fever in his spartan bamboo bed. He immediately rushes out and find medicinal plants which he boils and administers to the commander, and orders two recruits to attend to the commander and cool his fever with damp clothes all day and night.

It is not until the next morning that Phan recovers from his fever. One of the attendants hurries to bring him breakfast. After two big bowls of porridge to regain some strength, he slowly pushes himself out of bed and walks out of the hut to look for Cao who are giving martial drills to the recruits.

Imperial city of Hue

As soon as he sees Phan, Cao rushes to hold his arm for support and sits him on a wooden bench, while the fifty or so recruits pause to look. Cao shouts at them to continue with the sword drills.

Cao: Are you feeling better, Commander?
Phan nods: Yes, thank you for taking care of me. It’s embarrassing. In all of my 37 years, I have never been so sick. 
Cao: It’s the jungle, Commander. It’s to be expected for anyone. But after a few times with the right medicine, your body will become stronger. 
Phan: Where did you find the right medicine in the jungle like this?
Cao: In the jungle, sir. Where else? The forest has all the medicine we ever need.
Phan: How do you know what plants to use?
Cao: I learned it from the indigenous people of the mountains since I was young, sir.

Phan: How many times do I have to tell you not to call me sir?
Cao: How can I not, sir? You are a scholar gentry placing first at the national mandarinate exam, and I would still be a good-for-nothing bandit or, worse, dead, if your brother had not protected me from the royal troop ten years ago.
Phan: That doesn’t matter. We are now equal as comrades fighting for our country. Apart from you, who has the knowledge and skills to train our soldiers? I am just a stupid mandarin who knows nothing practical in my life.
Cao: You know more than all of us put together and a hundred times more. We are just a bunch of ragtag urchins. Do you really think we can fight the French?
Phan: If not people like you who have been fighting them for years, who else? People at the court have just been fooling themselves that they can stop the French, but they will never stop until they own all of Vietnam.
Cao: I am sure there is still hope, sir.

A portrait of Phan Đình Phùng

Phan shakes his head gently and pulls out a piece of paper from his pocket.
Phan: Two days ago I received a pigeon message from Hue. The young Emperor Kiến Phúc died several days ago, and another fifteen-year-old was put on the throne. They call him Emperor Hàm Nghi.
Cao: That’s terrible, sir. That’s how many emperors since Emperor Tự Đức died in the middle of last year?
Phan nods: Well, Tự Đức was the fourth emperor of the Nguyễn Dynasty. This new one is number eight.  The fourth one in just over a year. And I have a premonition that he will not last long. The whole court will soon fall under French control… 
Cao lowers his voice: In that case, you were absolutely right to propose a plan to build this secret base to Regent Tôn Thất Thuyết.
Phan nods: I was hoping to be proven wrong, but we must prepare for the worse. It was during my inspection trip to the North to address the complaints against corrupt or incompetent officials that I discovered this area and wrote the book of Vietnam geography. But of course, I left out a lot of strategic details to keep them from the French. There are too many French collaborators at court. 

Cao: What happened to the three emperors before this one, sir?
Phan: Well, you know that Tự Đức couldn’t have children due to smallpox when he was young, so he adopted three nephews as sons. Before he died, he chose the youngest Kiến Phúc because he’s the least likely to be corrupted by the French. Regent Tôn and I secretly agreed that Kiến Phúc would not survive the more powerful royal family members under French influence, so these would have to be eliminated before he can rule effectively. So in contradiction to the late emperor’s will, the Regent arranged to have the oldest adoptee Dục Đức crowned as number five just to have him deposed and imprisoned with trivial accusations three days later. To avoid suspicions from French spies, I made a false pretest against the Regent’s actions for him to have me stripped of my position, thrown briefly into jail, and exiled according to our plan. That’s when I came to find you to help me execute the next steps.
Cao: What happened at the court after you left, sir?
Phan: After the execution, a senior member of the royal family, a half-brother of Emperor Tự Đức, asserted his claim on the throne as number six and the Regent Tôn failed to stop him. But Hiệp Hòa made a fatal mistake when he sent his mandarins to sign the Harmand Treaty after their attack on Thuan An Fort. Accusing him of bringing an elephant home to trample his ancestors' grave, the Regent managed to depose and force him to take poison after four months on the throne.

Cao: I see. That’s how Kiến Phúc finally became emperor as intended. I heard he was often in bad health, but who would have thought that he would die so soon after all the troubles to secure his seventh place?
Phan: I am not sure how it happened. The pigeon message didn’t give any details. But I wouldn’t rule out poison by a French agent.
Cao: Then we must do everything to ensure that our new emperor is safe. May the ancestral emperors protect him too.
Phan: That was on my mind too. May be that’s why in my feverish dream I saw myself back in Hue visiting the tomb of the first emperors.
At this point, the recruits, having finished their drills, gather around the two superiors. Cao tells them to go away, but Phan says they can stay to hear what he has to say. As soon as Cao nods, all the recruits come to sit around them.


Cao: Please describe the imperial tombs to me, sir, if you don’t mind. None of us here have seen Hue and will probably never get to see the imperial city in this life.
Phan: The tomb of Emperor Gia Long, the dynasty founder, lies the furthest downstream from the citadel. After reaching the site on a boat, you walk on a beautiful path through a peaceful pine forest situated between forty-two hills representing a protective wall surrounding the highest hill where the emperor lies. Then you walk up marble steps until you find Minh Thanh Temple containing the emperor and the queen’s funerary tablets and personal items. 
Then you go down a few steps through an ornate gate toward the Courtyard of Salutation with ten stone mandarins and their horses, elephants, and imperial guards. In front, there is a half-moon pond flanked by stone dragons. Then you walk up six levels of marble terraces lined with royal dragons and clouds until you reach the royal burial site on the very top where the emperor’s and the queen’s magnificent graves are laid side by side in the enclosure sealed with a bronze gate. 
Cao: Wow. It must be a very special place. 

Phan nods: The site was chosen by Fengshui experts befitting the emperor who united Vietnam, north and south. Nearby there’s a large stone stele with the inscription of his biography, recalling his life’s hardships including the early years when he spent in exile at Siamese court feeling like ‘a black leopard in a cage’ and ‘a dragon at the bottom of a deep well.’
Cao: Why was he in Siam, sir?
Phan: He was the last of the Nguyễn lords to survive Tây Sơn rebellion, so he sought help from Siam’s newly established dynasty. But it all went badly, so he tried the French, sending his son to Paris with a missionary named Béhaine promising to give Dà Náng and Côn Dâo island to the French emperor if they helped him win. But after signing the Treaty of Versailles, the French Revolution broke out while the French in India were not interested, so he only received backing from the French missionary and some mercenaries until he finally managed to unite the country.
Cao: Making deal with the French. Isn’t that like bringing in a snake to bite one's own chickens, sir? 
Phan: Looking back now, you’re probably right. It was a bad idea. But at that time, all fighting sides even the old Trinh lords and the Tây Sơn also enlisted foreign help because they had modern weapons.
Cao: But those foreigners will never do nothing for free.
Phan: France did send ships some years later to claim what was promised, even though they didn’t fulfil their end of the deal, so the emperor refused. But French missionaries were allowed to stay. 
A recruit blurts out: But they teach us to disrespect our ancestors. That’s completely wrong.
Other recruits nod in agreement. 

Phan: I know their faith is very different from our Confucian belief. And the court felt the same way too. Their teachings about Jesus, the son of God in heaven challenge the rule of the Emperor himself as the Son of Heaven. They also undermine Confucian values which are the moral bedrock of our society. But the missionaries won’t obey any decreed prohibitions or leave the country. Instead, they started to build influence over court mandarins and royal family members and used their native converts for underhanded purposes including inciting rebellions. That’s how the problem finally came to a head under the second emperor Minh Mạng
Cao: Please tell us about Emperor Minh Mạng’s tomb, sir?
Phan: His tomb lies slightly closer to the citadel. Following Fengshui principles, the layout resembles a womb, symbolizing a peaceful resting place awaiting a good rebirth. First you walk through the Great Entrance on either side of the middle dragon way reserved for the emperor, then you continue on the path flanked by Trung Minh Lake full of lotus flowers passing the stele house, the Courtyard of Salutation with two rows of stone mandarins, the temples of civilian and military mandarins on either side, Sung An Temple with the emperor and the queen’s funerary tablets and personal effects, then cross the bridge to pause at the moon-viewing Pavilion of Light with gorgeous scenery. Then you cross another bridge across Tan Nguyet Lake and climb 33 steps to arrive at the enclosure of the emperor’s and his queens’ tombs. 



Cao: How was Minh Mạng as an emperor, sir?
Phan: He used administrative reforms to strengthened unity and stability throughout the country, asserted power into neighboring Lao kingdoms and Cambodia, and extended our territory to the Mekong delta. For all this, he sometimes came into conflicts with Siam, but what he wasn’t prepared for was conflicts with the West. One year before he died, the Opium War broke out in China. The Qing Empire was savagely beaten by the British. Minh Mạng was so alarmed that he decided to kick out the missionaries and shut the door to foreigners.
Cao: He did the right thing.
Phan: I don’t know. For how long do you think we can keep them out? What the country needed was to prepare ourselves for the coming troubles. One good thing he did throughout his reign was to recruit the best men to serve the country based on ability and honesty not family history and connections, although distrusted of Catholics were prohibited from taking the mandarinate exams.
Cao: Catholics have no chance to pass them anyway.
Phan: Some people can be Catholic and still be educated and excel in the classics. Nguyễn Trường Tộ was one of the Catholic patriots who couldn’t serve, although he later became important in another way. 

Cao: And how did the French war start, sir?
Phan: When Minh Mạng died, his son Thiệu Trị became emperor and began to relax the anti-Catholic laws. After Britain won the Opium War, other European countries started to look for similar exploits elsewhere. French warships started to show up often at Da Nang demanding that we opened our ports for trade and give them privileges. In the last year of Thiệu Trị’s reign, a French ship with no good reason fired and sank five of our ships. Thiệu Trị was so angry that he ordered another round of persecution against the Catholics who he believed were behind French aggression.
A recruit asks: What’s Thiệu Trị’s tomb like, sir?
Phan: Because he reigned only for seven years, his tomb was built entirely by his son Emperor Tự Đức.. You enter the ornate gate, passing the Court of Salutation with only six stone mandarins, two horses and two elephants. Then you find a stele house and modest temples set among small gardens, and then cross three short bridges over a lake and walk some steps before arriving at the walled enclosure housing the graves of the emperor and the queen. Compared to Gia Long’s and Minh Mạng’s, it’s a very simple tomb in accordance with his own wish.
Cao: That’s a sensible wish. It’s better to spend money to prepare the country than build a lavish tomb only for himself. 

Phan: Indeed, we should focus our money and time to strengthen ourselves. War would have come sooner if not for another revolution and internal turmoil in France as the wave of revolutions swept across Europe. Meanwhile, the fourth Emperor Tự Đức first had to contend with a rebellion led by his elder brother who was passed over for kingship. It was later discovered that he was backed by foreign missionaries.
Not long after, the French president with support of the Church made himself emperor. Now he could do whatever he pleased, including invading other countries. After the end of the Crimean War, his attention came back to China and Vietnam. Emperor Tự Đức rejected his demand to establish a legation and a trading post, just when the Second Opium War broke out so they joined America and Russia to attack China while Britain was still reeling from the Indian rebellion.
But we were not left alone for long. Now on good terms with Britain after fighting the Crimean War and Second Opium War together, France saw the opportunity to make Vietnam their “India” outside British sphere of influence and interference. Using an execution of a Spanish priest as a pretext, this time they were joined by Spain and their Filipino colonial troops to attack Danang and capture Saigon. But they couldn’t hold on to it, because of the Italian War and more battles in China. 

After the combined Western forces defeated China, they burned down and looted Peking Summer Palaces. The Chinese Emperor fled Peking and died shortly after. Now France returned with full force. In one year, they took Saigon and two eastern provinces of the South. Facing with northern rebellion, the Emperor knew that he could not fight two wars at the same time, so he authorized venerable Phan Thanh Giản to negotiate the humiliating Treaty of Saigon. The rebellion, in fact, was also backed by the foreigners.
Cao: So they attacked us from both ends. How cunning.
Phan nods: But Emperor Tự Đức didn’t give up easily, not least because Saigon is where his mother’s tomb was located. He sent venerable Phan to Paris the following year to negotiate the return of the three provinces in exchange for an enormous sum of payment. But the French occupying the southern provinces were too greedy while the French emperor was occupied with Mexico, so venerable Phan returned empty handed and was appointed governor to defend the remaining three southern provinces.
It was around this time that Nguyễn Trường Tộ started sending petitions to the court urging rapid reforms, but his proposals were met with resistance from many conservatives at court not only because he was Catholics but also briefly worked for the French as a translator translating official court documents during the Southern invasion because he thought it would help both countries to come to peaceful agreement.

A bust of Nguyễn Trường Tộ in his hometown Nghe-An


Cao: What would a Catholic know anyway?
Phan: That’s what I thought too in the beginning. As Nguyễn Trường Tộ could not take the mandarinate exam due to his faith, he was given opportunities to travel with missionaries to Hong Kong, Singapore and other countries, and learned about the changing world from foreign books like the Ying-huan chih-lueh. So he had a better understanding than anyone in Vietnam about the danger facing the country.  
Cao: What’s the Ying-huan chih-liieh, sir?
Phan: They are books written by a Chinse scholar Hsu about the world’s physical geography, the political map of the world, and Western expansion in Asia and its impact upon China and its tributary states.
In Nguyễn’s petition "On the dominant trends in the world" he wrote, “I have frequently studied world affairs and realized that to sue for peace with France is the best thing we can do. In Europe, France is the most formidable military power, second to none… In victory, their entire country would rejoice; they show no regret even if they have to sacrifice thousands of lives in order to preserve their national honor and prestige. Their commanders are daring, highly resourceful, and skillful in tactics in both land and sea battles. He argued that, in order to protect what had not been lost to France, Vietnam had no other choice than to sue for peace and buy time to strengthen itself.”
He also had read Wei Yuan’s Hai-kuo fu-chih, which not only gave information about the West but also suggested strategic measures to deal with the current Western encroachment, such as "using Westerners to fight Westerners", "using Westerners to entice Westerners", and "learning the strength of Westerners to control Westerners"

French Capture of Saigon 1859

Nguyễn Trường Tộ recommended to the court to embrace the methods of the West lest Vietnam should lose its sovereignty, and that it should "control the French by using other Europeans" or "use other countries to defend itself from foreign threat," In the petition "On the Six Advantages," he quoted the current Qing Emperor who said: The best policy to fight against the Westerners is to use Westerners.
He urged that Vietnam should make peace and give temporary concessions to France while developing itself like Japan. Modernization was to him of the foremost importance; for this reason, he called for an expansion of trade and relations with other countries. He cited the example of Siam that opened trade with several European countries to balance one against another, after their rival Burma, once powerful enough to fight off the Mongols and the Qing, lost almost all its territory to Britain.
He also proposed that Vietnam take the initiative and invite French companies to come and invest in Vietnam, participating in the development of its mines and other resources so that the Vietnamese could learn modern technology and thus bridge the gap between their country and the outside world. If Vietnam was not prepared to do so, France would force its way in, anyhow, and seize Vietnam's resources for its own use.

At the same time, he emphasized the need to preserve social and political order by upholding the imperial throne and the officialdom. Japan, Turkey and many European nations were saved from social upheavals because they were able to maintain such institutions.
Most importantly, in "On the education and accumulation of talents" he attacked "empty learning" (hu-hoc) and called for the adoption of "practical learning" (thuc-hoc) in education; recommended the establishment of various departments as fisheries, mining, forestry, geology, and irrigation; promoted equality of gender in education; encouraged the study of foreign languages among Vietnamese. 
The Emperor resisted it in the beginning reasoning that we can never win barbarians with barbaric means, lest we become barbarians ourselves like Japan. But slowly he began to grasp the need for reforms. He assigned Nguyễn to go to France to recruit experts and purchase books and machinery for a technical school to be built in Hue. But it was too late. When Nguyễn was in Paris, the French forces in Cochinchina using an excuse of suppressing anti-French rebels violated the “Treaty of Amity” and captured the three remaining provinces. Unable to defend his territory, venerable Phan resigned and committed suicide. 

Phan Thanh Giản (middle) and delegation to Paris (1863)

Cao: I remember his words. The first time I heard it from your brother, I cried. He said “I was living at peace with you, and relying upon your good faith, but you now march against me with forces so large that would be madness to resist. I we fight it will bring misery to innocent people, and will only end in defeat. I therefore yield to you what you demand, and protest against your violence.”
Some recruits wipe off their tears.
Phan: The timing was unfortunate for Vietnam. Under pressure from the ranking officials of the dominant "war faction" who vehemently opposed both the French and Christianity, the court ordered Nguyễn and his group to return home. On his return, he sent another petition "Eight urgent matters" urging reforms in such areas as defense, administration, taxation, and education, and adoption of the vernacular script  as the official written language instead of literary Chinese. But his voice was drowned out by the conservatives. In the end, his reform proposals came to nothing. Defeated, he went back to his hometown in Nghe-an.
Four years later when France was beaten in the Franco-Prussian War, he wrote another petition urging the court to exploit this opportunity to regain the lost provinces. He was summoned to Hue to discuss details but he died with illness before. That’s truly unfortunate because France had many internal problems during those years, and we could have strengthened ourselves before they came back this time.

Death of Francis Garnier 1873

Cao: But they attacked Hanoi ten years ago. I remember that’s the year your brother saved me, sir.
Phan: Apparently that time was all done by the French in Cochinchina. Once they realize that the Mekhong cannot be easily navigated to the rich mines of Chinese Yunnan, they turned their attention to the Red River instead. Garnier attacked Hanoi but died at the hand of the Liu Yongfu’s Black Flag Army. 
Cao: Did you get to meet Nguyễn Trường Tộ, sir?
Phan: No, I entered the court six years after he died. During the last stage of the mandarinate exam, the Emperor Tự Đức posed questioned on how the West made such rapid military progress, my answer was “Such progress is not exclusive to the West. As Japan demonstrated, Vietnam could do the same as we have the will power”. Later the regent told me, it remined him of Nguyễn Trường Tộ. So I got the opportunity to read all his petitions from the library of the Regent. I deeply regret never have met him.
Cao: We certainly need more intelligent people like him.
Phan: Maybe that time has passed. The court is full of defeatists. Honest mandarins have left, while most of the remaining are either French collaborators or protecting their own interests, not the country. Now we need more and more people like you to fight the French.
Cao: One would have thought that they would stop bothering us after their European war defeat.
Phan: Quite the opposite. Once they put their house in order, they sought to seek prestige through enlarging their empire in Asia and Africa in order to compensate for the humiliation in Europe. 

Combat of Nam Định during France's Tonkin Campaign of 1883 

Cao: Can’t we ask for support from China?
PDP: China is surrounded by wolves so they are not ready to confront the French full-on as that will invite the others to join in like before. That’s why they have forsaken us. They signed an agreement with France in Tientsin a few months ago. That’s why France wanted Emperor Kiến Phúc to give them the imperial seal that Emperor Gia Long received from the past Qing Emperor when founding the dynasty.
A recruit suggests: How about asking help from Siam like Emperor Gia Long? 
Phan: I am not sure. There has been several conflicts between us and Siam over the Lao rebellion and Cambodia that I don’t think they have forgotten. Even without those, they are also trying to survive like us and China, avoiding any pretext for France to invade them too.
Cao: But if Vietnam falls, won’t they be next?
Phan: That may very well be. Right now they are clutching their territories and tributary states as tightly as possible. I am sure France also has its desire on Lan Xang and other Lao kingdoms which stand between Tonkin and Yunnan. 
A recruit then comments: Sir, you haven’t told us about Emperor Tự Đức’s tomb.
Phan: His tomb is different than the rest, because it’s a vast complex with a royal residence where he often escaped to when he was unhappy. I only visited it a few times for discrete meetings. The complex is very elaborate because he took three years to build it himself. 
But what struck me most about it was the stele biography which he wrote, lamenting his own failings and the decision to accept “voluntary humiliation in order to bring peace to his kingdom”.
Cao: He should have fought, not accepting it so easily. We are here fighting. The people have been fighting even without the court support.


Phan: I know there are many posters calling for resistance. I heard about one anonymous poster calling for "putting down the French and retrieving the North" put on the main road of Nam Đàn District.  
Cao: Because yielding to the French is a betrayal to our ancestors. Besides, it’s suicide.
Phan: It’s a slow death, but death for sure. The Cambodian king yielded his kingdom as French protectorate, and where did that get him? Gradually, they are trying to squeeze him out of all power, like a boa snake.
Cao: It’s a complete mistake, sir.
Phan: Nguyễn Trường Tộ’s words are these, “Once a mistake has been made, it is cause for eternal regret; By starting over from the beginning, the foundation for a hundred years may be laid."
Cao: Does he mean his own mistake working for the French, sir?
Phan: I am sure he deeply regretted that period of his life, but I always sensed that he was talking more about the country although I couldn’t pinpoint what he meant. It could be Gia Long’s for inviting the French in, Minh Mạng’s for kicking them out, Thiệu Trị’s for not preparing for war, or Tự Đức’s for not modernizing and strengthening the country. 
Cao: Or all of them?
Phan: On the contrary, now I think it’s none of these. Our mistake, rather, is to think that the court is the country. That is wrong. Vietnam is its people. We need to start over by trusting and giving power back to the people, then the foundation for a hundred years may be laid. 
He slowly kneels down on the ground facing the recruits, kowtows to them, and with the loudest voice he could muster shouts out, 

“The Emperors are dead. Long live the people!”

-----------------------------------------------------------------------------

Most Popular